Contrary to what one might believe, the variables that go to make a customized product are many, virtually endless, as there are points aligned on a straight line, and the whole thing is made even more complicated because these variables are not managed only by you but also by the craftsman who packs them.
It must take into account the distinction between the terminologies. As it happens more or less in the field of tailoring are three levels, from bottom to top: the calibrated, the made-to-measure (custom) and bespoke. In the first case we start from a standard size and is slightly corrected in the main measures (neck, cuffs, sleeve length, maximum pleats). In made-to-measure the level of customization is a bit 'higher, you start with a standard model as close as possible to customer's measurements, and suits its measures, intervening on more wide-ranging than the calibrated. This type of intervention rarely provides testing sessions because the basic model, in fact it is already equipped with good standard fit. One that will remain at the store (not the craftsman) is a folder with annotated the basic model used and the poor customer, which here include the shoulders, chest, waist, armholes, torso length. It 's like starting with a framework already done and intervene with brush strokes according to our tastes. It will always be the picture of another. This is the practice most commonly used by most of the people who believe they have a tailored shirt, but did not have it. Or rather, the partially, and here is the genesis of the disparity between your shirt and that of his friend who has it more beautiful.
The third level is called bespoke representing the highest level in the scale of customization of clothing and accessories. In summary, it start from a clean sheet to create a model (of anything, not only of a shirt) completely new, starting with the poor customer sun to arrive, correcting along the way, to meet the specific desires of the client. It immediately creates a test shirt (in a specific tissue), a crude statue, only basted, not sewn, through which the test sessions, assumes the final shape. What will remain will be a seamstress pattern, designed specifically with your name. That will be the matrix for each your next order, for which it will be necessary to choose only again fabrics and details. From this moment on, then we will talk only bespoke, the only real way to achieve remarkable results.
Before I talked about infinite variables, we try to break them down at least in key areas. The shirt is made in good substance by:
- 1. fabric
- 2. cut
- 3. seams
- 4. hills
- 5. cuffs
- 6. buttons
- 7. accessories
The combination of these elements, in the middle with all possible nuances, will give birth to your shirt.
Jovanny Capri also specializes in tailored suits and the following are some of the laborious and painstaking processing steps that are performed on our tailored jackets, which only the skilled hands of the Neapolitan craftsmen are able to build.
Finally Jovanny Capri is also handwork of artisan shoes, this manual process and 'the quintessence of softness and flexibility', where the upper room from the bottom to cover the sides and through a dense array of pleats sewn in with the typical hand, that only Neapolitan master shoemakers with art ramandata from father to son, can turn the craft in extreme luxury.